Retirement

Dear Liz: I am 65 and plan on working until 70 to get the maximum Social Security. I have a 401(k) worth about $290,000. How do I determine the maximum monthly payout I should take while being somewhat certain it will last until I’m 90? Our family has a history of longevity, typically living into the early 90s.

Answer: You may have heard of the “4% rule,” a guideline that suggests an initial withdrawal rate of 4%, with the amount adjusted each year afterward by the inflation rate. The rule stems from research by certified financial planner Bill Bengen, who in a 1994 research paper used historic market returns for a portfolio consisting of 50% stocks and 50% bonds to determine the maximum safe withdrawal rate for a 30-year retirement.

Some researchers believe a sustainable withdrawal rate should start closer to 3%, and others suggest higher rates if the account owner is willing to cut back spending in bad years.

However, most retirement accounts, including 401(k)s, are subject to required minimum distributions. These will start after you turn 73. (For people born in 1960 or later, such distributions will be required starting at age 75.)

The exact amount you must withdraw depends on your account balance at the end of the previous year as well as your age and life expectancy. The percentages you must withdraw could be slightly less or considerably more than 4% of your original balance.

Dear Liz: I’m 72 and still employed with a salary of $80,000. My wife and I have a home with about $1.6 million in equity. We have almost $4 million in real estate investments, $200,000 in stocks, IRAs worth about $250,000 and about $175,000 in cash. Although it may seem like we have a lot, I really have no clue what to do at this time. I worry about the need for long-term care in future for me or my wife, or what would happen if I stopped working and lost that income. I don’t know how to manage the stocks and cash I do have or how to plan for the future. I tried contacting quite a few fee-only financial planners and they all told me they wouldn’t work with me unless I had $500,000 to give them to invest. Any suggestions on where I can get some real advice without giving someone complete control of money that I don’t have anyway?

Answer: You’re describing the “assets under management” model, in which advisors charge a percentage of the assets they manage for clients and often require the clients to have a minimum level of investable assets such as stocks, bonds and cash. This model evolved in part because many people balked at paying directly for comprehensive financial planning, which is time- and labor-intensive.

But this model often isn’t a great fit for people who are just starting out, who don’t want asset management or who, like you, have most of their money in less liquid investments.

Fortunately there are other ways fee-only planners get paid. Some, including those represented by the Garrett Planning Network, charge by the hour. Others, represented by the XY Planning Network and the Alliance of Comprehensive Planners, use the retainer model, in which clients pay monthly or quarterly fees. Interview a few planners from these organizations to find a good fit.