Ask Liz Weston

Get smart with your money

Retirement Savings

Q&A: Should extra cash go to retirement or emergency savings?

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Dear Liz: I have an excessive amount of money in my bank checking and savings account (about $20,000 in each) and need to know where to invest it. My financial planner advised putting it in my 401(k), but I can’t transfer a chunk of money, I can only increase the percentage I contribute (which is currently at 10% of my salary). I have IRAs, but I can only deposit a certain amount there as well. Where would be the best place for this extra money to go that will pay interest?

Answer: You may not be able to put the money directly into your 401(k), but you could boost your contribution rate at work and tap the “excess” money in your accounts to make up the difference in your paychecks.

First, though, make sure you have an adequate emergency fund. Most financial planners recommend keeping a reserve equal to three to six months’ worth of expenses. This money should be kept in a safe, liquid account, such as an FDIC-insured bank account. You don’t need to settle for the tiny amount of interest many banks pay, however. Some online high-yield savings accounts are now paying over 4%.

Q&A: How to get started managing your retirement assets

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Dear Liz: I’m 72 and still employed with a salary of $80,000. My wife and I have a home with about $1.6 million in equity. We have almost $4 million in real estate investments, $200,000 in stocks, IRAs worth about $250,000 and about $175,000 in cash. Although it may seem like we have a lot, I really have no clue what to do at this time. I worry about the need for long-term care in future for me or my wife, or what would happen if I stopped working and lost that income. I don’t know how to manage the stocks and cash I do have or how to plan for the future. I tried contacting quite a few fee-only financial planners and they all told me they wouldn’t work with me unless I had $500,000 to give them to invest. Any suggestions on where I can get some real advice without giving someone complete control of money that I don’t have anyway?

Answer: You’re describing the “assets under management” model, in which advisors charge a percentage of the assets they manage for clients and often require the clients to have a minimum level of investable assets such as stocks, bonds and cash. This model evolved in part because many people balked at paying directly for comprehensive financial planning, which is time- and labor-intensive.

But this model often isn’t a great fit for people who are just starting out, who don’t want asset management or who, like you, have most of their money in less liquid investments.

Fortunately there are other ways fee-only planners get paid. Some, including those represented by the Garrett Planning Network, charge by the hour. Others, represented by the XY Planning Network and the Alliance of Comprehensive Planners, use the retainer model, in which clients pay monthly or quarterly fees. Interview a few planners from these organizations to find a good fit.

Q&A: Opening an IRA for a retired spouse

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Dear Liz: Are spousal IRAs a good idea for a couple when one spouse is retired but the other is working? I’m 63 and work full time. My husband is 76 and retired. I have a Roth IRA; he does not. I contribute the maximum amount to my IRA. If we create a spousal IRA for him, would we be able to contribute as if it were a regular Roth IRA?

Answer: Yes. Normally people must have earned income — such as wages, salary, commissions, tips or self-employment income — to contribute to an IRA or a Roth IRA. If you’re married and working, though, you can contribute up to the maximum amount on behalf of a nonworking spouse. In 2023, the maximum contribution for people 50 and older is $7,500. As long as you earn at least $15,000 ($7,500 times two), you can max out both accounts.

There’s no special “spousal IRA” account, by the way. Just open a regular IRA or Roth IRA in his name.

Q&A: How a Roth IRA rollover can cause unforeseen problems

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Dear Liz: I have been contributing to my young adult children’s Roth IRA accounts for the past few years to get them started on retirement savings. My oldest just left her first job to go back to graduate school. Since her income will be low this year, I advised her to roll her defined contribution plan with her former employer into her Roth IRA to consolidate her retirement savings. Will this conversion affect the maximum amount that I can contribute to her Roth beyond the usual rules on maximum contributions?

Answer: A conversion could do more than affect her ability to contribute to a Roth. It also could inflate her tax bill, reduce her eligibility for financial aid and affect any health insurance subsidies she’s receiving. A conversion could still be a smart move because Roth IRAs offer tax-free withdrawals in retirement, but she should understand all the implications before following your advice.

The amount your daughter converts from her 401(k) or other defined contribution plan would be considered a taxable distribution and treated as income. That could affect her eligibility for tax breaks, such as education tax credits and Affordable Care Act subsidies, as well as her ability to contribute to a Roth. (In 2023, the ability for an individual to contribute to a Roth phases out between modified adjusted gross incomes of $138,000 to $153,000.)

Also, to be eligible to make a contribution, she must have earned income at least equal to the amount she (or you) plan to contribute. Retirement plan distributions aren’t considered earned income so she would need wages, salary, tips, bonuses, commissions or self-employment income to qualify.

The conversion could affect her financial aid in future years. Federal aid calculations are based on tax returns from two years prior, so her 2023 tax return could affect her aid if she’s still in school during the 2025-26 academic year.

Also, she needs to figure out how she would pay the tax bill on the conversion. Converting a regular retirement account to a Roth can make sense if someone expects to be in a higher tax bracket later, but the math starts to fall apart if the retirement account itself has to be raided to pay the tax.

Your daughter should consult a tax pro who can review her situation and provide personalized advice.

Q&A: Don’t do this with your retirement funds — unless you want to pay tax

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Dear Liz: I recently switched jobs and realized that I have multiple 401(k) accounts from prior employers over the years that need to be consolidated. When I reached out to my current employer’s 401(k) administrator to understand the rollover process, they said I would actually need to have a paper check mailed to me for each prior employer and then arrange to mail the checks to them. Liz, we are talking about four checks totaling a very substantial amount of money! They said there is “no other way” to process the rollovers. I cannot understand why we are still dealing with such an archaic process in this day and age. Should I be worried or should I just go ahead and take care of this now since I don’t seem to have much say in the process?

Answer: You should definitely be worried, and you also shouldn’t assume that your employer’s 401(k) administrator understands the options at other companies. Getting a check in the mail from an old plan is not only unsafe but triggers a 20% withholding requirement.

If you want to avoid taxes and penalties on the missing 20%, you’d have to come up with that money out of your own pocket. (If you didn’t deposit the check with the new plan or in an IRA, you’d owe taxes and potentially penalties on all of the money.)

When you contact the old plan’s administrators, ask if they can do a “direct rollover” to your new 401(k) account. Often, the transfer can be made electronically.

Even if the old plan uses a paper check and the U.S. mail to deliver the funds, you can avoid the 20% withholding requirement if the check is made out to your new account rather than to you.

Q&A: Here’s a retirement tax trick: the mega backdoor Roth IRA

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Dear Liz: I am a 32-year-old married father of two. My income is high enough to contribute to my kids’ 529 and custodial brokerage accounts. I’ve been able to max out my 401(k), health savings account and backdoor Roths for my spouse and myself. Next, I’m debating between starting a life insurance retirement plan (LIRP) or making after-tax 401(k) contributions because my plan allows mega backdoor Roth conversions. What are your thoughts on LIRP versus mega backdoor Roth?

Answer: Mega backdoor Roths are such a sweet deal for higher-income workers that you probably should take advantage if you want to put aside more tax-advantaged money for retirement.

For those who are unfamiliar: Roth IRAs allow tax-free withdrawals in retirement, but only people with incomes under certain limits can contribute directly to a Roth. The ability to contribute phases out for married couples filing jointly with modified adjusted gross incomes of $204,000 to $214,000.

There’s no income limit on conversions, however, so people with higher incomes can contribute to a traditional IRA and then convert the contribution to a Roth IRA in what’s known as a backdoor Roth. Conversions typically trigger income taxes on any pretax contributions or earnings, so this tactic works best if the person doesn’t have a large existing IRA.

The mega backdoor Roth takes this strategy to a new level.

Some employer 401(k) plans allow participants to make after-tax contributions that can then be converted to a Roth. The amounts that can be contributed and converted are substantial. Although the pretax limit for contributions is $20,500 for workers under 50 in 2022, the total amount that can be contributed by employees and employers to a 401(k) is $61,000.

The amount you can put in after tax would be reduced by any company match you get. Assuming there’s no match, you could contribute $20,500 to the pretax plan and an additional $40,500 to the after-tax plan this year.

A mega backdoor Roth would allow you to build up a substantial fund of tax-free retirement money without the costs and other potential disadvantages of a LIRP, which requires you to buy a permanent life insurance policy. With a LIRP, you would use the cash value of the policy to hold investments that you could access tax free through withdrawals or loans.

LIRPs can make sense if you otherwise need permanent life insurance, but many people need only term insurance, which is much less expensive.

If you’re still interested in a LIRP, consult with a fee-only, fiduciary financial advisor first to ensure you understand how these work and determine if they’re a good solution for you.