Ask Liz Weston

Get smart with your money

Investing

Q&A: How to buy U.S. Treasuries

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Dear Liz: Can I purchase a U.S. Treasury bill myself or do I need to go through a bank or a financial advisor?

Answer: You can buy government-issued securities — including Treasury bills, bonds and notes —from TreasuryDirect, which is operated by the U.S. Department of the Treasury. Setting up an account usually takes just a few minutes, but you’ll need a valid Social Security number, a U.S. address and a checking or savings account to complete the process.

You also can buy Treasuries in a brokerage account. You can purchase a Treasury bill on what’s known as the secondary market, where securities are bought and sold, or you can invest in a Treasury money market mutual fund or a Treasury exchange-traded fund.

Q&A: ‘Assets under management’ advisors

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Dear Liz: We’ve been using a fee-only financial advisor for 25 years. We’d discuss what we needed, she would tell us how many hours it would take, then she invoiced us at an hourly fee.

She recently joined a company that charges 1% of investment portfolios to provide financial advice. Is this still considered fee-only financial planning? If so, how do we find a firm that charges an hourly rate? We don’t want to spend thousands of dollars for someone to just tweak the detailed roadmap that’s already been created.

Answer: So-called “assets under management,” or AUM, fees are indeed considered fee-only planning, as long as the advisor only accepts fees paid by the clients and does not receive commissions or other compensation for the investments they recommend. AUM fees are a common compensation method and 1% is a fairly standard fee. If the advisor is doing significant, ongoing planning and investment management for you, the fee may be worthwhile. If not, there are other compensation methods that may be a better fit. Garrett Planning Network represents fee-only advisors willing to charge by the hour, while XY Planning Network and the Alliance of Comprehensive Planners offer fee-only advisors who charge retainer fees.

Q&A: What a bear market really means for your 401(k)

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Dear Liz: With the stock market tanking and no rebound likely in the near future, should I decrease the amount I am contributing toward my retirement? I earn a high-five-figure salary and currently contribute 25% of my pay to my company’s 401(k). The current balance is $450,000 with about two-thirds held in a 2030 target date fund and the remainder in a 2035 target date fund. I hope to retire at the end of 2030 at age 64. I have no other retirement accounts, but I am married and my husband collects Social Security and a pension.

It’s hard putting hundreds of dollars into my 401(k) every two weeks only to watch it seemingly disappear. Would it be smart to decrease the percentage I contribute by 5% to 7% and then use that extra money to pay down a $40,000 home equity line of credit? Or should I just stay the course, keep my percentage the same and ride out this bear market?

Answer: Since you’re within 10 years of retirement, it’s time to hire a fee-only financial planner to get specific, individualized advice about your situation. The decisions you make in the years immediately before and after retirement can have a huge impact on how long your money lasts. Mistakes made in this time frame can be difficult if not impossible to reverse.

Take, for example, this impulse to reduce your contribution rate. Your money isn’t disappearing; it’s being used to buy stocks at a discount. When the market rebounds, as it inevitably will, those shares you bought on sale will benefit from the growth.

A planner would tell you not to cut retirement contributions simply because stocks had entered a bear market. The logical response to a bear market is to invest more, not less.

That said, variable rate debt is getting more expensive thanks to Federal Reserve Bank rate hikes. Reducing your 401(k) contributions a few percentage points to pay off that debt faster could make sense, especially if you’re not giving up free money in the form of a company match and your reduced savings rate will still allow you to retire on time.

Again, a fee-only financial planner could help you weigh your options and recommend the best path.

Q&A: Riding the market waves

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Dear Liz: Today’s stock market is one of the most volatile of all time. So many issues affect it, and there seems to be no end in sight to war in Ukraine, inflation, high fuel prices, the pandemic, China conflict concerns and more. Any one of these would cause the market pain, but together it’s scary. I have a broker who’s used to riding ups and downs, and says to me to be patient. In the meantime I’ve lost 25% of a portfolio that was extremely fruitful until January of this year. Please give me guidance on working with a broker, finding one who knows how to navigate this market and isn’t mired in some tradition of riding waves. I need one who sees opportunity and knows how to take advantage and get out appropriately.

Answer: The reason your broker is “mired in some tradition of riding waves” is because that’s the one approach that consistently works. It’s the advisors who promise you that they can “see opportunity” and “get out appropriately” that can cost you big time. Advisors who try to time the market — which is what you’re asking them to do — inevitably fail. They might get out in time to avoid the crash but rebounds happen so swiftly that they’ll miss a good chunk of the recovery before they get back in.

There is no reward without risk, and riding out inevitable downturns is how investors get ahead over time. Trying to outsmart the market just leads to extra costs that lower your ultimate returns.

Q&A: When a full-service brokerage doesn’t want your business anymore

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Dear Liz: Can a brokerage firm drop a 26-year customer because their account falls below $200,000? I have been told that they don’t normally have accounts under that limit. Of course, my balance is lower because of the market slide. This policy doesn’t seem very ethical. Ten years ago, I had another account with them and it fell below $100,000 and nothing was said about that.

Answer: Your full-service brokerage may have just done you a favor. After charging you high fees for years, it has set you loose to find an alternative that will cost you much less.

Discount brokerages such as Vanguard, Fidelity, Charles Schwab and T. Rowe Price will welcome your business. You also could explore robo-advisory options that manage your money for a fraction of what you’re paying now.

Q&A: The ins and outs of I-bonds

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Dear Liz: As you know, interest rates on certificates of deposit are extremely low. I was thinking of investing in government I-bonds. Can you discuss the pros and cons?

Answer: I-bonds are guaranteed by the U.S. government and currently pay an interest rate of 7.12%. But they do have some downsides.

The rate on Series I savings bonds is a composite of two rates: a fixed rate, which is currently zero, and an inflation rate, which changes every six months. The semiannual inflation rate is currently 3.56%, which translates into a 7.12% annual rate. This rate applies for I-bonds issued November 2021 through April 2022 and is good for the first six months you own the bond, according to Treasury Direct, the financial services site that allows you to buy securities including I-bonds directly from the U.S. government.

Although the rate can change, it can’t go below zero, so you can’t lose your principal. However, you also can’t cash in I-bonds for the first year, and if you cash them in before five years, you’ll lose the previous three months’ worth of interest.

Also, the bonds don’t pay interest to you directly. Every six months, the interest earned is added to the bond’s principal. That creates a new principal value, and interest is then earned on that value.

The bonds are exempt from state and local taxes but subject to federal taxes. You can opt to pay federal tax on the interest each year, but most people defer reporting the interest until they cash in the bond or it stops earning interest at 30 years, in which case it’s automatically cashed out and the interest reported to the IRS.

You can buy up to $10,000 in I-bonds electronically each calendar year. You can buy another $5,000 in paper bonds, but only if you use your tax refund to do so.