Dear Liz: If I’m given a 10-day grace period for making a payment and pay the bill on the last day of the grace period, will it still be treated as an on-time payment on my credit reports?

Answer: Typically, yes. In fact, most creditors won’t report you to the credit bureaus as overdue until your payment is 30 days or more overdue.

That’s not to say you should treat due dates casually. Missing the due date (or the end of the grace period, if that’s different) will typically trigger a late fee and could lead to higher interest rates.

You would be smart to make sure your payment reaches your creditor a day or two before the end of the grace period. Using electronic payments rather than the mail can help you time your transactions more precisely. Online or automatic payments also leave an electronic trail that can prove when you paid.

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Dear Liz: I have almost $250,000 in my retirement accounts. I also have almost $50,000 in credit card debt. Should I take $50,000 from my 401(k) to pay off the debt?

Answer: No, no, no.

In case that wasn’t clear: No.

Of all the dumb financial moves you can make, raiding retirement funds to pay off credit card debt ranks near the top. You’ll pay penalties and taxes that typically equal one-quarter to one-half of any withdrawal, plus you lose the future tax-deferred returns that money could make. If you’re 30 years from retirement, that $50,000 withdrawal would cost you $500,000 in lost retirement income, assuming an 8% average annual return.

The fact that you have that much debt puts you at high risk of bankruptcy. In bankruptcy, your unsecured debt can be wiped out or reduced, while your retirement funds would be protected from creditors.

If you can’t figure a way to pay off your debt without raiding your retirement, you need to make two appointments: one with a legitimate credit counselor (visit the National Foundation for Credit Counseling at www.nfcc.org) and another with a bankruptcy attorney.

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The corpse of health care reform wasn’t even cold before we got a letter from our insurer telling us our premiums were about to increase 40%, to $1,026 a month.

This is for a policy that has a $5,000-per-person deductible ($10,000 family). Eight years ago, when we first secured coverage, the premium was less than $250 a month.

We’re not alone. Our insurer, Anthem, is jacking rates on thousands of its policyholders, as this Los Angeles Times article attests. California’s insurance commissioner says he’s “very concerned.” I’ll bet.

Anthem is blaming this on rising health care costs. Insurance agents are saying Anthem’s trying to rid itself of less profitable policies.

Anthem does offer policies with even less coverage that might save us some money on monthly premiums, but we’d have to go through underwriting again—and our insurance agent doubts we’d pass.

Why is that, you might ask? Do we have cancer, diabetes, heart disease?

No. Neither of us is overweight. We don’t drink or smoke, we exercise regularly and we’re in excellent health.

But I’m over 40, and my husband is over 50, and we each take a prescription medication. Mine’s for an underactive thyroid. My husband’s cholesterol is a little high.

That’s it. But that’s enough to prevent us from getting new insurance.

There is nothing about this situation that isn’t insane.

I don’t believe insurance should cover every sniffle and check-up. I was fine with paying most of our family’s health care costs out of pocket, as long as we had protection against catastrophic expenses. But I also expect insurance companies to hold up their end. When they cherry-pick their customers, drop those who are sick and jam through eye-popping rate increases, they aren’t providing insurance in any real sense of the word. They’re not pooling risk; they’re evading it.

The good news is that we can afford this increase, and probably a few more to come. Others can’t. One of my friends got a notice that her premium is going up to $500, and she can’t pay it. She, like many of Anthem’s other customers, will be going bare.

Kathy Kristof writes in this thoughtful column that the reason health care reform is dead is that Congress doesn’t understand what insurance should really do.

So instead of getting what we needed—coverage that’s available, affordable and there when you need it—we got squat.

UPDATE: The Los Angeles Times is reporting that the Obama Administration has called on Anthem to justify these huge price increases. Health and Human Services Secretary Kathleen Sebelius, who used to head the National Association of Insurance Commissions, wrote that Sebelius said that Anthem’s “strong financial position” made the increases “even more difficult to understand”:

These extraordinary increases are up to 15 times faster than inflation and threaten to make healthcare unaffordable for hundreds of thousands of Californians, many of whom are already struggling to make ends meet in a difficult economy.

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Credit card rates are going back to the future.

Instead of a wide range of rates based on the borrower’s risk profile, credit card companies will move to toward a single-rate system for all their customers, Discover CEO David Nelms told the Salt Lake City Tribune recently.

The Credit Card Accountability, Responsibility and Disclosure Act will benefit some people and hurt others, said Nelms, who was in Utah visiting the company’s largest call center operation Tuesday, in West Valley. For those with good credit, “the ultra-low rates of the past 10 years aren’t going to be available anymore.”

That’s how credit card rates used to work, back in the days before credit scoring. One rate, usually around 18%, for all customers–and folks with bad credit need not apply at all.

In February 2008, I warned that “The credit card party is officially over” as rising defaults and the credit crunch led issuers to start raising rates and lowering credit limits. That trend only accelerated after credit card reform passed. Balance transfer offers have gotten much less generous and rewards programs are about to suffer, as well. (I’ll be writing about that next week for MSN Money.)

All told, it’s a good time to get that credit card debt paid off. If you still have a low rate after Feb. 22, when the last of the CARD Act reforms kick in, you should be able to keep it unless you’re late paying by 60 days. Otherwise, you might want to consider locking in a lower rate with a personal loan from a credit union. With good credit, you could get a three-year loan with a fixed rate around 10%.

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Balance transfer fees used to be a minor annoyance: typically less than 3% and generally capped at $50 to $75. Now they’re as high as 5% of the transferred balance, with no caps, and issuers may well continue to boost them in their never-ending quest for profits to replace what they lost to credit card reform.

Bill Hardekopf of LowCards.com recently did a round-up of current balance transfer fees by issuer, and here’s what he found:

Chase: 5%
Discover: 5%
Bank of America: 4%
Citi: 3%
American Express: 3%
Capital One: most do not have balance transfer fee, but the Platinum
Prestige card charges 3%

As before, you have to do the math to make sure a balance transfer makes sense, since the fees will offset and could outweigh any interest rate savings. Hardekopf advises that if you need longer than a year to pay off your debt, you should consider a card with a low on-going rate rather than one with an ultra-low teaser rate that will expire.

Hardekopf’s additional advice:

You must pay on time, every time. If you have a late payment, your
introductory period will likely end and you will be assessed the APR
on the transferred balance.

There is no grace period with balance transfers. Interest charges begin at
the time the check is issued to your credit card institution.

You can’t transfer your balance to another card with the same issuer.

It takes about four weeks for the balance to be transferred. Continue to
make all required payments until you confirm that the balance transfers were
made. Multiple balance transfers will process in the order they are
requested on the application.

The new issuer pays the amount of the balance directly to the old issuer
and the amount you owe them will be reduced by the amount you transferred.
The available credit on your new account will be reduced, as if you had made
a purchase.

Transferring a balance does not automatically close your old account. If
you want to close the account, contact the issuer directly.

Issuers have the right to decline balance transfer requests or transfer
less than you requested.

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Tax fraud and tax-related identity theft isn’t exactly rampant–there were 50,000 complaints in 2006, compared to nearly 10 million cases of identity theft total. But it does appear to be on the rise, and the last thing you want after the hassle of preparing your return is to find out your refund has been swiped by some bad guy.

Janice Chaffin, head of Symantec’s Norton Business Unit, offers these tax season safety tips:

1. Carefully select your tax prep provider or software.
Visit the IRS Web site for approved software partners that support online filing. If you use a tax prep provider, don’t just go with someone who promises big refunds. Ask if friends have used him/her before.

2. When ready to eFile, make sure your Internet connection is safe.
When you are using an online tax prep service, look for indications that the connection is encrypted (you should see the address change to “https” and a lock symbol appear in the browser frame). Don’t prepare or file taxes on a shared, insecure connection like the open Wi-Fi network in your neighborhood coffee shop.

3. Turn off (or remove) any peer-to-peer file sharing services.
If you use peer-to-peer services (like LimeWire, Kazaa, BitTorrent), you can inadvertently allow a criminal anywhere in the world to find your tax file record (usually a pdf file) on your computer, revealing all your personal information. It is best not to use these services, during tax season or any other time of the year.

4. Encrypt and secure any pdf copies of the return on your computer
In your My Documents view, right-click a file name to select “Encrypt.” Print out a copy and put in a safe location in your home. Back up or store additional copies to save someplace else.

5. Make sure your Internet security software is on and up-to-date.
Symantec advises all computer users to keep their security software updated; keep their computer systems clean and continue to use general best practices for staying safe online. Find more information on how to prevent criminals from invading your computer here.

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Dear Liz: My daughter is a sophomore at a very expensive college, and federal loans cover only $6,500 of her costs. She has taken out two private student loans with me as a cosigner, one at 6.5% interest and the second at 9.9%. I need $15,000 more for this semester’s tuition. I am an unemployed single mother but cannot get much financial aid. She is an above-average student but cannot find any awards or scholarships.

Answer: Your daughter may need to look for a less expensive education, since it appears neither of you can really afford the one she’s getting.

Unlike federal student loans, private student loans tend to be expensive, with variable rates and less flexible repayment options. Borrowers can easily find themselves taking on far more debt than they will be able to repay after graduation, yet this debt typically can’t be discharged in bankruptcy — it can follow your daughter for life.

A better option, if you must borrow, is for you to take out PLUS loans. These are federal loans for parents and graduate students that allow you to borrow the difference between your daughter’s college costs and any financial aid, including federal student loans, she gets. The rates are fixed at 8.5% or less.

PLUS loans do require a credit check. If you don’t pass — you’re 90 days or more overdue on a bill or you’ve had a bankruptcy in the last five years, for example — your daughter’s eligibility for student loans would be increased somewhat to help compensate.

But both of you should be thinking about alternatives. You really shouldn’t borrow money if you don’t have a way to pay it back. When you’re unemployed, taking on $15,000 a semester in debt is pretty foolish.

If her school won’t reconsider her aid package in light of your unemployment, she should be researching less expensive schools to which she could transfer her credits.

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Dear Liz: I am a single woman with a base salary of $101,000 plus bonuses, which so far have been significant. I divorced three years ago, and I am still digging out of debt. Last year I put all of my bonus toward debt but still have about $20,000 remaining. I will soon get another bonus of $38,000 before taxes and 401(k) contributions.

Is it wise to just pay off all the debt, or should I target the higher-interest-rate loans and put some in savings? I am thinking that I would have just enough to eliminate all my debt except my mortgage.

Answer: Debt comes in three basic flavors: toxic, good and neutral. Toxic debt includes credit card debt, payday loans and other high- or variable-rate borrowing. Good debt includes borrowing that can help you build wealth, such as a moderate amount of mortgage or student loan debt. Neutral debt includes everything that’s not actually toxic but that isn’t helping you build wealth, such as fixed-rate car or personal loans.

You should get rid of toxic debt as quickly as possible, so use your bonus to pay off any that you have. Then consider any neutral debt you owe. If you already have substantial emergency savings, you could pay off that neutral debt. If, however, you don’t have an emergency stash equal to at least three months’ worth of expenses, and your neutral debt has low rates, consider building up your savings instead.

Finally, make sure to review your spending and saving plans to make sure you’re living within your base salary. Bonuses are great but are variable by their nature, and you don’t want to count on them to pay your bills or bail you out of a jam.

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Dear Liz: In a recent column, you wrote that if a credit card due date falls on a banking holiday, the due date is moved to the next business day. I found myself in exactly that situation in November, because my due date fell on Veterans Day, and my credit card issuer refused to remove the late fee. It would be helpful if you would clarify exactly how due dates work.

Answer: Most of the provisions of the Credit Card Accountability Responsibility and Disclosure Act of 2009, including many of the new rules about due dates, don’t go into effect until Feb. 22. Some issuers changed their policies to implement the changes earlier, but others did not.

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If you’re tempted to feel sorry for credit card companies, what with all the new restrictions kicking in Feb. 22, read on.

Capital One was recently sued by West Virginia’s attorney general for a variety of alleged misdeeds, including sending customers a debt repayment plan disguised as an offer of new credit. (Hat tip to Bill Hardekopf at LowCards.com for bringing the suit to my attention.)

Capital One sent the solicitations to people whose balances had already been charged off as bad debt, West Virginia Attorney General Darrell McGraw alleged in his complaint. Although it looked like a new credit card offer, what Capital One was really offering was $1 of new credit in exchange for the customer agreeing to have the charged-off balance transferred to the new card, McGraw said.

The agreement allowed Capital One to charge interest, late fees and over-the-limit fees on debt that otherwise would have been beyond its reach, the complaint alleges. The agreement also allowed Capital One to re-age the debt, restarting the statute of limitations.

According to a Legal Newsline article by Nick Rees:

“Capital One’s practice of offering nominal extension of credit, if and only if, the consumer agreed to pay off a debt too old to be sued on is tantamount to loan sharking,” McGraw said.

The complaint alleges Capital One also:

  • issued multiple low-limit credit cards, each charging exorbitant fees, rather than raising credit limits on consumers’ existing accounts
  • unconscionably imposed over-the-limit fees on consumers’ accounts
  • sold services to consumers who could not benefit from the services
  • billed and attempted to collect for credit card accounts that were never activated.

I’ve made a big fuss about the difference between fair play and foul play, and how often credit card companies crossed the line. But this little scheme may have crossed another line: the one between foul play and pure evil.

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