Answer: Your family needs to take action, but setting your mother up for not just one but possibly two future moves probably isn’t the best course. Moving is terribly disruptive, and AARP surveys show that the vast majority of older people prefer to “age in place” rather than leave their homes.

Investigate reverse mortgages as one option. With a reverse mortgage, your mom could pay off her small mortgage and tap the substantial equity in her home. She could get a lump sum, a stream of monthly checks or a line of credit that could allow her to fix her home and live more comfortably. She wouldn’t have to make payments or pay income taxes on this loan, and it wouldn’t have to be paid off until she dies or moves out.

Reverse mortgages can be expensive because of the fees involved, although a new version of the federal Home Equity Conversion Mortgage offers lower upfront fees, and some lenders will waive or reduce their fees. You’ll want to do plenty of research, and shop around to make sure you get the best deal. The AARP and U.S. Housing and Urban Development websites have a lot of information about reverse mortgages.

If your mom decides she’d rather sell, she should consider a move directly to a senior community that offers assisted living as an option. She will have the most choices if she’s healthy when she moves in. Although she may never need the assisted living option, many people start to need some kind of help with daily activities by the time they reach their mid-80s.

Answer: You don’t need your employer to help you save for retirement, fortunately. Since you’re over 50, you can contribute $6,000 to an IRA or Roth IRA annually. You can open an account at virtually any bank, brokerage or credit union. Look for one that doesn’t charge you account service fees and that has a broad array of low-cost investment options. Vanguard, for example, waives its service fees for IRA investors who sign up for electronic statements.

If you’re able to save more, you can do so in a regular, taxable brokerage account. You won’t get a tax break for your contributions, as you would with a traditional IRA, but you can qualify for low capital gains tax rates if you hold your investments for at least a year.

Your Social Security benefits will be based on your 35 highest-earning years. The Social Security website (http://www.ssa.gov) has a benefits calculator that enables you to see your estimated future benefit based on your work record so far, and that enables you to create different scenarios — such as a lower salary going forward, or different retirement ages — to gauge their effect on your future checks.

Answer: The most important thing you need to know about investing is that there is no such thing as a truly risk-free investment.

You won’t lose your principal if you invest in “safe” investments, such as Treasuries and FDIC-insured bank accounts. But you won’t earn enough to keep ahead of inflation. Basically, you’ll never be able to save enough to retire, since the purchasing power of your funds will erode over time rather than grow.

To stay ahead of inflation, you need to take more risk. Stocks over time have consistently offered returns that beat inflation. In every 30-year period starting in 1928, stocks have returned average annual returns of at least 8%. But they certainly don’t gain that much every year, and some years you’ll face steep losses. When you invest in stocks, you have to be prepared for volatility. In other words, sometimes your investments will lose money.

You can reduce that volatility somewhat by diversifying your stock investments (some small companies, some large; some U.S. companies, some foreign) and by including a diversified mix of bonds in your portfolio, along with cash.

A fee-only financial planner can help you design an investment plan that makes sense for your situation. Or you can consider opting for the “lifestyle” or “target date retirement” funds offered by your plan, since they do the diversification and rebalancing for you.

Answer: You’re right. The math typically favors delaying Social Security payments for as long as you can. Your benefit gets bigger for every year you delay until age 70. Also, your benefits are sharply reduced if you continue to work after taking early Social Security checks.

But this is yet another area where there are no one-size-fits-all solutions. Some people may opt to apply for benefits early, perhaps because their life expectancies are short, they want to let their investments continue to grow tax-deferred or they simply want (or need) the money. Others may delay for as long as possible to maximize their payouts.

You can’t know for sure in advance which is the right approach, since there are so many variables involved — including how long you’ll live and how long you’ll enjoy good health.

As you approach retirement, you should make an appointment with a fee-only financial planner to review every aspect of your retirement plans, including this particular issue. Another good resource is the awkwardly titled “Personal Finance for Seniors for Dummies” by Eric Tyson and Robert C. Carlson, who spend a fair amount of ink on the “when to retire” conundrum.

Answer: If you’re prone to panic, you should turn off the television pundits who like to scare people, which seems to be most of them.

What you need are perspective and balance. If you’re within 10 years of retirement, you should invest in a session with a fee-only financial planner to make sure your portfolio is appropriately diversified. Taking too little risk can be as dangerous as taking too much when you have a 20-year (or longer) retirement horizon.

Over time, the stock market does march upward, although it’s never a smooth path.

Answer: Refinancing to a 30-year loan can certainly make sense for people who want to lock in the lowest payment and maintain their financial flexibility in the face of possible financial setbacks. You’re also right that this couple seems disciplined enough to make the extra payments to get the loan retired before they do.

However, you missed a key factor: This well-disciplined couple had a mortgage with an interest rate of 5.875%. That indicates they’ve had this mortgage for a while. If they’ve paid down enough of the principal balance, they may be able to refinance to a 15-year loan with a significantly lower interest rate (as in slightly over 3%) without dramatically raising their payments. Many people, when faced with that option, would want to lock in the lower rate.

Answer: You don’t say how much is in your husband’s 401(k), but a 6% contribution rate when you’re in your late 40s is unlikely to generate a big-enough nest egg to retire. Boosting that contribution rate should be your priority, and you should consider contributing to a Roth IRA for each of you.

Likewise, saving anything for your child’s college education is smart, but $100 a month won’t get you far. Just for comparison, consider that parents of newborns need to save around $600 a month to pay the full cost of a public college. Those who start later or want to cover a private college have to contribute much more.

Most families aren’t able to save that much, so the next best thing is to simply save what you can — after you’re fully on track with your retirement savings.

You shouldn’t prioritize paying down your relatively low-rate debts over these two far more important goals. But you may want to consider refinancing your mortgage to dramatically lower your rate and perhaps free up more cash for your goals. Just try to make sure the loan will be paid off by the time you plan to retire. A 15-year loan, in other words, might make more sense than refinancing into another 30-year mortgage.

Answer: You need to accept your new reality, rather than papering it over with ill-advised loans or raids on your retirement accounts.

That means reducing your expenses dramatically to reflect your new, lower income. If your housing expenses eat up more than a third of your current pay, for example, you need to consider your alternatives. You have equity in your home, which should make a sale easier. If you want to hang on to the house, consider getting roommates or even renting out the house while you live elsewhere (if the rent will cover your home’s monthly expenses).

You may have loan payments or other debts taken on when you had more income that you can no longer afford. If that’s the case, discuss your situation with both a legitimate credit counselor (one affiliated with the National Foundation for Credit Counseling at http://www.nfcc.org) and a bankruptcy attorney (find referrals from the National Assn. of Consumer Bankruptcy Attorneys at http://www.nacba.org).

Your home equity should be reserved for emergencies, not used to finance a lifestyle you can no longer afford. And your retirement funds should be left alone for retirement.

Answer: Don’t use retirement funds to pay off credit cards. Period.

If it pains you to think about the interest you’re paying, good. That may keep you from running up more debt.

But you’ll pay a lot more in the long run by raiding your retirement fund. First, you’ll lose one-third or more of your savings ($8,000 or more) to taxes and penalties. Then you’ll lose all the future, tax-deferred returns your 401(k) could have earned. You can figure that the $24,000 will easily cost you more than $100,000 in lost future retirement income.

A better approach is to cut your expenses so you can put more money toward paying off your debt. An extra $500 a month could shave a year or more off the time you’re in debt and save you a considerable amount in interest.

Answer: When deciding whether to pay off a mortgage, many people focus on how much interest they could save or what their “return” on their money would be. (If you’re in a 35% tax bracket for federal and state income taxes, for example, your return on paying off a 7% mortgage would be 4.6%.)

In reality, though, most people have better things to do with their cash than pay off relatively low-rate, tax-deductible debt.

Are you, for example, on track with your retirement savings? Do you have a substantial emergency fund? Most families would be wise to set aside a cash reserve to cover three to six months’ worth of expenses. Someone who is self-employed with a non-working wife might want to boost that emergency fund to 12 months’ worth of expenses.

Are you adequately insured? Since your wife is financially dependent on you, you probably should have a substantial life insurance policy. You may want to get one on her as well, if she cares for minor children and you’d have to hire a nanny if she died. You may also need disability coverage.

If you’ve covered all these bases and still want to pay off your mortgages, feel free. Otherwise, put the money to better use.