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	<title>Ask Liz Weston &#187; Budgeting</title>
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	<link>http://asklizweston.com</link>
	<description>Personal Finance Columnist</description>
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		<title>Should you refinance a mortgage that&#8217;s almost paid off?</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2012/01/30/should-you-refinance-a-mortgage-thats-almost-paid-off/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2012/01/30/should-you-refinance-a-mortgage-thats-almost-paid-off/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 17:08:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Real Estate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[financial priorities]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mortgage refinancings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mortgages]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[refinancing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=3213</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: We have a second home close to a lake that we bought in 2002 for $370,000. It could have sold for $1 million at the peak of the market but is now worth about $800,000. We owe $100,000 on a mortgage with four years left until it’s paid off, but the payments are [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dear Liz: We have a second home close to a lake that we bought in 2002 for $370,000. It could have sold for $1 million at the peak of the market but is now worth about $800,000. We owe $100,000 on a mortgage with four years left until it’s paid off, but the payments are a hardship and barely manageable. I don’t expect prices in the area to improve much in the next several years and they may decline more. Since I could sell the house now and get back all the money I ever put into it, I figure that every dollar I pay on it from now on is a dollar of profit burned. Selling the house is not an option, though, as my wife is adamant about keeping it. We are 10 years from retirement and have a kid to put through college. Our income is just under $100,000, we have no other debts and our primary home is paid off. Should we refinance the remaining balance to a 30-year loan, or just grin and bear it until the payoff in a few more years?</p>
<p>Answer: If you’re on track saving for retirement and your child’s college education, then the smart thing would be to gut it out and get the property paid off. You’re so close to the end of this loan that the majority of your payments go toward principal. Refinancing might lower your payments, but would dramatically increase the amount of interest you’d pay over time.</p>
<p>If you’re stinting your savings, though, the math gets more complicated. You could view the paid-off vacation home as an asset you could tap later for retirement expenses or college. In that case, getting it paid off on the current schedule would make sense. If selling or borrowing against the home in the future isn’t an option, though, then lowering your payments so you can save for your other goals starts to make some sense.</p>
<p>If that’s the option you choose, consider a 15-year loan rather than a 30-year loan. The shorter loan will still dramatically reduce your payment but you’ll pay about 60% less interest over time.</p>
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		<title>Budgeting in the big city</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2012/01/30/budgeting-in-the-big-city/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2012/01/30/budgeting-in-the-big-city/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 17:06:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[50/30/20]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[budgets]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[housing costs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=3211</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: You’ve written about the 50/30/20 budget structure that people should strive to achieve. As you said, it&#8217;s a difficult feat. But here&#8217;s my question: How does one even come close when you live in a major metropolitan area? In my particular case, home values in my area have remained intact in many places [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dear Liz: You’ve written about the 50/30/20 budget structure that people should strive to achieve. As you said, it&#8217;s a difficult feat. But here&#8217;s my question: How does one even come close when you live in a major metropolitan area? In my particular case, home values in my area have remained intact in many places and demand for apartments is so high that vacancy rates are the lowest in the nation. To get into a relatively safe neighborhood with access to public transit, rent is over $1,000 with a roommate or two. Finding that 50/30/20 balance seems impossible for people who live here and we can&#8217;t all just relocate.</p>
<p>Answer: If you live in a high-cost area but don’t have a high income, you’ll need to get creative if you want to keep your “must have” expenses—shelter, food, transportation, child care, minimum loan payments and insurance—under 50% of your after-tax income.</p>
<p>Many people in high-cost areas devote 40% or more of their incomes to shelter costs, which makes it all but impossible to have enough money left over for their “wants” (clothes, vacations, gifts and other non-necessities that should consumer 30% of their after-tax incomes savings, according to the 50/30/20 plan) or savings and debt repayment (which should consume 20% of your after-tax income under the plan). The result is a perpetually unbalanced budget, which often leads to more debt and lots of anxiety.</p>
<p>But people have come up with various solutions to better balance their budgets. Blogger Donna Freedman was an apartment manager for several years, which helped lower her shelter costs. Fred Ecks, who retired in his 40s, lived on a boat to reduce his rent in notoriously high-cost San Francisco. Other people have exchanged their services for free or reduced rent—by babysitting or serving as a companion to an elderly person.</p>
<p>If you can’t find a solution that lowers your housing costs, you have two options: continue to live with a lopsided budget, and accept that you may never be able to achieve a balanced financial life, or move to a place where you can make the math work.</p>
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		<title>Budget too tight? Cut your overhead</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2011/10/31/budget-too-tight-cut-your-overhead/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2011/10/31/budget-too-tight-cut-your-overhead/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Oct 2011 15:22:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[50/30/20]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[budgets]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=3080</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: The 50/30/20 budgeting plan you advocate just doesn&#8217;t work on a low income. I currently rent because I can&#8217;t afford the purchase of a house, and the lowest I can go and still be in a safe neighborhood is $600. That&#8217;s well over 40% of my salary, and you say all your &#8220;must [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Dear Liz:</strong> The 50/30/20 budgeting plan you advocate just doesn&#8217;t work on a low income. I currently rent because I can&#8217;t afford the purchase of a house, and the lowest I can go and still be in a safe neighborhood is $600. That&#8217;s well over 40% of my salary, and you say all your &#8220;must have&#8221; expenses including shelter, food and transportation should be 50% or less of after-tax income. With rising prices, saving and debt elimination seem like an unreachable reality. What concrete advice do you have for someone who doesn&#8217;t have a credit card, and is trying to get out of $7,000 of debt, to get to stability to purchase a home?</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong> Saving and debt elimination are tough on a low income. But that doesn&#8217;t mean basic math doesn&#8217;t apply in your situation. If you spend too much on your &#8220;must have&#8221; expenses, there simply won&#8217;t be enough left over to live your life, pay off your debt and save for your future.</p>
<p>People on lower incomes manage to stay out of debt and save money. To do so, though, they have to limit what they spend on their overhead. They find roommates or rent a room in someone else&#8217;s house, or move in with a family or an elderly person and offer to help out in exchange for part or all of their rent. Some decide they simply can&#8217;t live cheaply enough where they are, and opt to move elsewhere. Books and websites devoted to the voluntary simplicity movement can give you other concrete ideas about how to live on a shoestring.</p>
<p>If you can&#8217;t bear to trim your expenses, your only other option is to make more money. That&#8217;s not an easy prospect in this economy, but a second job or a side business could help you get out of debt and save for a down payment.</p>
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		<title>Income dropped? Expenses have to drop, too</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2011/09/12/income-dropped-expenses-have-to-drop-too/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2011/09/12/income-dropped-expenses-have-to-drop-too/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 00:27:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Home Equity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[home equity line of credit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[IRA]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mortgages]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Retirement]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=2990</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: I was laid off in November 2009. For the first year, I took the unemployment and tried to find a job without success. So, in late 2010, I started my own business, contracting mainly for employers for whom I used to work. Unfortunately, I am making about a third of what I used [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Dear Liz:</strong> I was laid off in November 2009. For the first year,  I took the unemployment and tried to find a job without success. So, in  late 2010, I started my own business, contracting mainly for employers  for whom I used to work. Unfortunately, I am making about a third of  what I used to make, and even after cutting expenses, there are months  that I can&#8217;t pay my bills. I have taken two withdrawals from my  self-directed IRA this year. Is that the smartest thing to do? Or should  I even out my cash flow by writing myself loans from my home equity  line of credit?</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong> You need to accept your new reality, rather than papering it over with ill-advised loans or raids on your retirement accounts.</p>
<p>That  means reducing your expenses dramatically to reflect your new, lower  income. If your housing expenses eat up more than a third of your  current pay, for example, you need to consider your alternatives. You  have equity in your home, which should make a sale easier. If you want  to hang on to the house, consider getting roommates or even renting out  the house while you live elsewhere (if the rent will cover your home&#8217;s  monthly expenses).</p>
<p>You may have loan payments or other debts taken on when you  had more income that you can no longer afford. If that&#8217;s the case,  discuss your situation with both a legitimate credit counselor (one  affiliated with the National Foundation for Credit Counseling at <a href="http://www.nfcc.org/">http://www.nfcc.org</a>) and a bankruptcy attorney (find referrals from the National Assn. of Consumer Bankruptcy Attorneys at <a href="http://www.nacba.org/">http://www.nacba.org</a>).</p>
<p>Your  home equity should be reserved for emergencies, not used to finance a  lifestyle you can no longer afford. And your retirement funds should be  left alone for retirement.</p>
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		<title>Bank&#8217;s overdraft fee causes checks to bounce</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2011/08/01/banks-overdraft-fee-causes-checks-to-bounce/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2011/08/01/banks-overdraft-fee-causes-checks-to-bounce/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Aug 2011 17:35:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Banking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[banking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bounce protection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bounced checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bounced-check fees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[courtesy overdraft]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[overdraft fees]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=2922</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: My bank unexpectedly charged me a $25 annual fee for overdraft protection, which ironically caused two checks to bounce because I no longer had sufficient funds to cover them. I was then charged overdraft fees of $27.50 for each check, as I was already maxed out on my overdraft protection. I don&#8217;t remember [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Dear Liz:</strong> My bank unexpectedly charged me a $25 annual fee for  overdraft protection, which ironically caused two checks to bounce  because I no longer had sufficient funds to cover them. I was then  charged overdraft fees of $27.50 for each check, as I was already maxed  out on my overdraft protection. I don&#8217;t remember the bank charging this  fee before and it didn&#8217;t mail anything to me warning that this charge  was coming. It was so disheartening as I knew I had enough money in the  account to cover the checks I had out. Had I known I would have found a  way to deposit more money to cover the transactions. I actually feel my  banker watches my account looking for ways to rob me.</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong> Your bank isn&#8217;t the real problem here. Yes, banks can  charge sneaky fees, and sometimes their disclosure leaves a lot to be  desired. But you&#8217;re severely mismanaging your money if a $25 fee can  cause this big a problem.</p>
<p>You should keep at least a $100 pad in your checking and keep an eagle  eye on your balance to try to prevent overdrafts in the first place. If  overdrafts occur despite your best efforts, then your priority should be  repaying those — not writing more checks.</p>
<p>If you can&#8217;t manage that, then you should turn off your ability to  overdraft. If you have true overdraft protection — your checking account  is linked to a line of credit or credit card — ask your bank to  discontinue that. You also should decline the bank&#8217;s &#8220;bounce  protection,&#8221; which allows overdrafts on ATM and debit card transactions  in exchange for a fee. Recurring transactions and checks can continue to  trigger overdraft charges, however, so your best bet is to switch to  your debit card and cash until you have a better handle on your cash  flow.</p>
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		<title>How to beat &#8220;frugal fatigue&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2011/07/27/how-to-beat-frugal-fatigue/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2011/07/27/how-to-beat-frugal-fatigue/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Jul 2011 15:05:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Credit Cards]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Debts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Savings]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=2908</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: I&#8217;m 28 and trying to get better with money. I&#8217;m enrolled in a debt management plan through a consumer credit counseling service and have paid $21,000 in credit card debt down to $8,000. The debt was left over from my divorce three years ago — my ex is nowhere to be found, so [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Dear Liz:</strong> I&#8217;m 28 and trying to get better with money. I&#8217;m  enrolled in a debt management plan through a consumer credit counseling  service and have paid $21,000 in credit card debt down to $8,000. The  debt was left over from my divorce three years ago — my ex is nowhere to  be found, so it&#8217;s all on me to pay it off, which should be done by  early 2013. The biggest chunk of my paycheck goes to this debt and rent.  Otherwise I don&#8217;t spend much. I use coupons for groceries and anything  else I need. My car payment is reasonable (less than $200 a month) and  my student loans are in forbearance. I spend less than $50 a week on  food. I don&#8217;t have cable, only Internet and <a id="ORCRP010656" title="Netflix Inc." href="http://www.latimes.com/topic/economy-business-finance/netflix-inc.-ORCRP010656.topic">Netflix</a>.  I cut my cellphone bill to a manageable rate. I&#8217;ve switched car  insurance companies several times to get lower rates. I usually bring my  lunch to work and rarely buy clothes, eat out, get haircuts, travel,  give gifts or do anything extra because I don&#8217;t have the cash at the end  of the month. I went from paying everything late to paying everything  on time. This is a great achievement for me. But all of this cutting  back hasn&#8217;t helped. I still don&#8217;t have any money in savings and very  little in checking. I transfer money into a savings account but then  take it right out when it&#8217;s needed. And it&#8217;s always needed. I&#8217;ve been  trying to find a second job or even a new job that pays more, but I feel  like it&#8217;s impossible right now. Do you have any advice that could help  me?</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong> What you&#8217;re experiencing is frugal fatigue. You&#8217;ve cut  and you&#8217;ve cut, but you still have a long way to go. It&#8217;s easy to look  at the road ahead and feel discouraged.</p>
<p>But you have to give yourself credit for paying off $13,000 in debt.  That&#8217;s a huge achievement. Give yourself another pat on the back for  staying current with your bills.</p>
<p>The discipline you&#8217;re learning will help you enormously in the years to  come. You&#8217;ll be able to build a substantial emergency fund once the debt  is paid off simply by redirecting a portion of the money you&#8217;re now  sending to creditors.</p>
<p>In the meantime, don&#8217;t sweat the fact that you don&#8217;t have a huge savings  account. Work on setting aside just $500 or so, which should cover most  small setbacks and keep you from having to use your credit cards. If  you have to drain your savings for an emergency, that&#8217;s OK — the fund is  serving its purpose. Just build it back up again.</p>
<p>Earning more money is usually the fastest way to dig yourself out of a  hole. If you can&#8217;t find another job or a better job, create your own  job. Perhaps your work skills lend themselves to moonlighting. If your  job allows you to take on freelance clients, that&#8217;s a good way to bring  in extra money. Otherwise, if you have a talent or skill you can teach,  do that. If you don&#8217;t, consider providing services that others need:  house cleaning, house sitting, dog walking, errand running.</p>
<p>You can look for some ways to give yourself more breathing room. If  you&#8217;ve cut all the small expenses, then it&#8217;s time to look at the big  ones: your rent and your debt payment. You may be able to free up more  money for saving, and for living, if you find a roommate. Also, ask your  credit counseling agency about the possibility of reducing your  payments a bit. It will take longer to pay off your debt but it could  make life more pleasant in the meantime.</p>
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		<title>Garnishments are taking food off this family&#8217;s table</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2011/06/27/garnishments-are-taking-food-off-this-familys-table/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2011/06/27/garnishments-are-taking-food-off-this-familys-table/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jun 2011 22:04:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Credit & Debt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Debts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food costs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food stamps]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garnishment]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=2853</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: Do you have any advice for a family of six with only $200 a month to spend on food? My wife and I are in dire need of advice, as our bills keep increasing but neither of us has gotten a raise in six years. We have two garnishments on our paychecks that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Dear Liz:</strong> Do you have any advice for a family of six with only  $200 a month to spend on food? My wife and I are in dire need of  advice, as our bills keep increasing but neither of us has gotten a  raise in six years. We have two garnishments on our paychecks that  effectively take 50% of what we make. After health insurance and 401(k)  loans are deducted, we bring home $2,000 a month. Our rent takes $1,400  of that and utilities take most of the rest. Do you have any miracle  advice for us?</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong> Many families are facing your  dilemma: flat incomes with rising costs. But your wage garnishments and  401(k) loans indicate you have a history of mismanaging your money,  which has led to even more pain.</p>
<p>You need the advice of an  experienced bankruptcy attorney. Wage garnishments by federal law aren&#8217;t  supposed to exceed 25% of your disposable income, and state laws often  provide even lower limits. If you can get your garnishments adjusted or  have them wiped out in a bankruptcy filing, you may be able to create  more breathing room.</p>
<p>In the meantime, see whether  you qualify for the federal  government&#8217;s Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (formerly known  as food stamps). If you make too much money or have too much in assets  to qualify, you can still visit a food bank to supplement what you&#8217;re  able to buy.</p>
<p>If you can&#8217;t find a way to lower your costs  further,  the only solution is more income  — not an easy prospect given the high  unemployment rate, but you may be able to find a job at a competing  business that pays more or start a business on the side.</p>
<p>Unfortunately,  there are no miracles when it comes to money math. You can&#8217;t make two  plus two equal five or have outgo that exceeds your income without  eventual disaster.</p>
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		<title>When should you replace your car?</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2011/06/20/when-should-you-replace-your-car/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2011/06/20/when-should-you-replace-your-car/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jun 2011 16:42:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[auto loans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[car buying]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inflation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Savings]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=2845</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: The conventional wisdom is that you save money by hanging on to your old car; the longer you keep it, the more money you supposedly save. But the longer you wait to replace your old car, the more prices for new and used cars will rise due to inflation. Since you eventually have [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Dear Liz:</strong> The conventional wisdom is that you save money by  hanging on to your old car; the longer you keep it, the more money you  supposedly save. But the longer you wait to replace your old car, the  more prices for  new and used cars  will rise due to inflation. Since  you eventually have to replace your car, at some point will you lose  money by waiting too long to replace it? How do you figure out where  that point is?</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong> Predicting future inflation is pretty tough and depends  on a number of factors. Right now, for example, many used-car models are  fetching significantly higher prices than in the past because of the  sharp decline in sales of new models during the recession (leading to  fewer available used cars now) and the fact that many owners are hanging  on to their cars longer to save money. The production slowdown in Japan  after its recent disasters is also affecting used-car prices.</p>
<p>Since predicting inflation is tough, you&#8217;d be smarter to focus on the  factors you can more easily control: your savings and  the condition of  your current car. With proper maintenance, today&#8217;s vehicles can notch  well over 200,000 miles. Owning a car for 10 years or more gives you  plenty of time to save up cash to buy your next vehicle.</p>
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		<title>Debts rising? It&#8217;s time to cut spending</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2011/06/13/debts-rising-its-time-to-cut-spending/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2011/06/13/debts-rising-its-time-to-cut-spending/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:57:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Credit & Debt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Credit Cards]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Credit Scoring]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Q&A]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Credit Bureaus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Credit Scores]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Debts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[FICO]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[FICO scores]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=2833</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear Liz: You&#8217;ve made it clear that we should try to keep our credit card balances to no more than 30% of the credit limits. Many of us haven&#8217;t been able to do that because we&#8217;ve needed to put charges on or take cash advances from credit cards while we&#8217;ve had no work, so 50% [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Dear Liz:</strong> You&#8217;ve made it clear that we should try to keep our  credit card balances to no more than 30% of the credit limits. Many of  us haven&#8217;t been able to do that because we&#8217;ve needed to put charges on  or take cash advances from credit cards while we&#8217;ve had no work, so 50%  was the revised goal. However, if still more charges or advances have to  be done, is it better to still spread them around so that all credit  cards are over 50% but below 60%, or is it better to just &#8220;max out&#8221; one  card and keep the rest of them under 50%?</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong> How about plugging the leaks that are causing your  financial ship to sink, rather than musing over how much water you can  take on before you&#8217;re swamped?</p>
<p>Steadily growing credit card debt is a clear sign it&#8217;s time to make  changes to get your spending in balance with your current income. That&#8217;s  because carrying credit card debt is simply too dangerous to your  financial health and can lead you straight to Bankruptcy Court. It&#8217;s too  easy to see something as a &#8220;need&#8221; and charge it, rather than make the  tough decisions to cut back on what you can no longer afford.</p>
<p>For credit scoring purposes, it&#8217;s better to spread out the balances. For life purposes, it&#8217;s better to stop charging.</p>
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		<title>3 more ways to save on food&#8211;with kids</title>
		<link>http://asklizweston.com/2011/06/09/3-more-ways-to-save-on-food-with-kids/</link>
		<comments>http://asklizweston.com/2011/06/09/3-more-ways-to-save-on-food-with-kids/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jun 2011 14:00:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lizweston</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Liz's Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Budgeting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food costs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[groceries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kids]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[raising kids]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[teenagers]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://asklizweston.com/?p=2827</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Today&#8217;s MSN column focuses on &#8220;How to eat when you&#8217;re really broke.&#8221; It&#8217;s written for a general audience, but here are three more kid-specific ways to save on your groceries: Make water the go-to drink. Don’t stock sodas or fruit juice, and limit milk to mealtimes. (Kids under 4 need two servings of dairy products [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://asklizweston.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Set46_05.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-2828" title="Set46_05" src="http://asklizweston.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Set46_05-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a>Today&#8217;s MSN column focuses on &#8220;<a href="http://money.msn.com/saving-money/how-to-eat-when-you-are-really-broke-weston.aspx" target="_blank">How to eat when you&#8217;re really broke</a>.&#8221; It&#8217;s written for a general audience, but here are three more kid-specific ways to save on your groceries:</p>
<p><strong>Make water the go-to drink.</strong> Don’t stock sodas or fruit juice, and limit milk to mealtimes. (Kids under 4 need two servings of dairy products a day; kids 4 to 8 need two to three; kids 9 to 18, four servings.) One cup of milk or yogurt or 1.5 ounces of cheese (think 6 dice-sized pieces) counts as a serving.</p>
<p>I used to be shocked at the idea of limiting milk—until I became a parent and saw how much a child who likes dairy will drink if left to her own devices.</p>
<p>Fruit juice is another liquid that&#8217;s easy to overdo. Many juices are loaded with sugar, and even those that aren’t have plenty of calories. Nutritionists tell us eating whole fruit is a better way to get our vitamins.</p>
<p><strong>Forget the clean-plate club. </strong>A better way to control waste is to reduce portion size, and offer seconds if the child wants. Encouraging kids to keep eating when they’re full can set them up for eating disorders. And shrinking those portions means you can use leftovers for other meals, rather than fighting over uneaten food or scraping it into the trash.</p>
<p>I once watched a distracted mom grab a soup bowl, scoop about two cups of cereal into it and soak the pile with milk—before putting the meal in front of a two-year-old, who had about three spoonfuls before she declared herself “done” and toddled off. The <em>mom</em> probably would have had trouble finishing that much cereal. Often we don’t pay enough attention to how much food we’re shoveling into ourselves or onto our family’s plates, but cranking back can lead to dramatically less waste—and lesser waistlines, if that’s an issue.</p>
<p><strong>Limit grazing.</strong> If you have athletes or teenaged boys in your house, you’ve probably come home to cupboards and a fridge that appear to have been cleaned out by locusts. (One friend’s son ate an entire loaf of bread in a single sitting.) Giving kids free range of the kitchen is expensive, and bound to lead to frustration when the ingredients you counted on for dinner have been hoovered up by Billy and his buddies. So stock a snack cabinet or shelf with healthy, relatively cheap options: air-popped popcorn, pretzels, whole grain cereals, raisins, peanut butter, apples, bananas and whole-grain crackers. Tell them they can have at those, but touching anything else will lead to dire consequences&#8211;such as cooking duties for the next week.</p>
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