Who Realistically Would Itemize Their Deductions?
Q: My wife and I just owed a ton of money for taxes because we had to take the standard deduction. How in the world to people accumulate enough deductible expenses to be able to itemize? I refuse to believe that the average individual makes thousands of dollars of deductible purchases or donates thousands to charity.
A: Well, you’re right on that score. About two-thirds of the nation’s taxpayers take the standard deduction, typically because they don’t have enough deductible expenses to itemize.
What usually allows people to itemize is mortgage interest, often combined with property taxes and state and local taxes. (For years, only state and local income taxes qualified as deductible expenses, but now you can choose to deduct sales taxes instead.)
So it follows that people who live in areas where real estate is expensive and taxes are high are more likely to itemize than those who don’t. Someone who buys a house in Amarillo, Texas–where the median house price is $97,100, according to the National Association of Realtors, and there is no state income tax–may not have enough deductions to itemize, whereas someone who buys a home in Orange County, California–median home price $627,300–almost certainly does.
Amarillo homeowners who put 10% down on median-priced homes would pay just $4,777 a year in interest during the first year of ownership, assuming a 30-year loan at 5.5%. That’s well short of the $9,700 standard deduction in 2004 for a married couple filing jointly.
San Francisco homeowners, by contrast, would pay $30,862 in mortgage interest during the first year.
Some commentators have used these differences to asset that folks in many parts of the Midwest and South are subsidizing those on the coasts and in the Northeast, thanks to the mortgage interest deduction. While that might be a bit of a stretch, it is true that the ability to itemize isn’t evenly distributed.
You may never have enough deductions to itemize, but you have a few other ways to avoid a big bill on April 15. Making contributions to a 401(k), if available, is one such way. If you’re not covered by a workplace retirement plan, or you are but your income is below certain limits, you can make deduction contributions to an individual retirement account.
You also should take time now to estimate your taxes for 2005 and adjust your withholding accordingly so you don’t face such a big bill next year. The IRS has a withholding calculator on its site, www.irs.gov, that can help.
Who to See About IRA Advice?
Q: I need help with deciding on where to take my 81-year-old mother to review her huge stack of IRAs and advise her on what to do with them. I have no clue on how to read them and neither does she.  Do I take her to a financial advisor? A tax pro?
A: You may need both if she hasn’t started tapping this money and it’s held in traditional IRAs instead of Roth IRAs.
That’s because withdrawals from traditional IRAs are supposed to start in the year after the taxpayer turns 70-1/2. Failure to do so incurs substantial penalties. If your mother hasn’t begun withdrawals, she’s going to want to consult a tax professional on the best way to make things right.
Once that’s done–or if she’s been making the proper withdrawals all along–it’s time to consult an objective financial planner with experience in advising people in retirement. (You can get referrals from the National Association of Financial Advisors at (888) FEE ONLY, among other sources.) How her money should be invested depends on her risk tolerance and objectives.
The planner will probably recommend streamlining all those accounts. There’s generally no need to have multiple traditional IRAs, and all those accounts make tracking her finances much more difficult. Besides, she may be paying fees that she could probably avoid by combining her accounts.
Organizing Receipts 101
Q: I just finished my taxes, and I know my refund would have been bigger if I had been able to find more of my tax-related receipts. You’ve talked about how to organize your records and when to get rid of old paperwork. Do you have any suggestions for tracking receipts?
A: Essentially, you need to figure out a way to separate your important receipts from all the other paperwork you carry around, and to be consistent with whatever system you set up.
Professional organizer Debbie Stanley has some great tips about handling receipts in her book, “Organize Your Personal Finances in No Time” (2004, Que). She notes that most receipts for purchases, ATM withdrawals and credit card transactions need to be retained for short periods of time only; typically three months or less, which is long enough to compare them against your statements or return an unwanted item.
So your first step is implementing a system in your wallet or purse that allows you to separate these short-term receipts from those you’ll need to retain longer, such as tax-related paperwork or sales slips for major purchases.
Some folks will have a third category: receipts that they need for reimbursement or rebates. If you’re an employee who regularly travels or entertains clients, you’ll want to include this category so you can get paid back for your expenditures.
Fortunately, many wallets have a number of different compartments where you can stow receipts of different types, or you might want to carry envelopes for this purpose in your backpack or purse.
Then, every night–or at least a few times a week–you can empty your receipts into an appropriate file folder or box: one labeled for short-term receipts, one for taxes and one for reimbursements or rebates.
The key to being able to find your important receipts when you need them is to put them in the same place every time–both when you receive them and when you get home. Don’t stuff them in your pants pocket or let clerks put them in the bags, and don’t let them linger in your wallet or purse.
Stanley also has a pretty nifty idea for dealing with short-term receipts. Rather than waste much time sorting through them, she set up three file folders, labeled “This Month,” “Last Month” and “Two Months Ago.” She empties her short-term receipts from her wallet into the “This Month” folder; at the end of the month, she transfers the contents of that folder to the “Last Month” folder. The previous contents of the “Last Month” go into the “Two Months Ago” folder, and whatever’s in the “Two Months Ago” folder goes into the trash. After three months, her receipts have spent time in each folder and she’s had plenty of time to retrieve them if necessary.
Variable Annuities for Seniors?
Q: In the past, you’ve mentioned that variable annuities aren’t a good investment for seniors. Why, then, does an official at our bank try to convince us to put our savings into one? We are in our early 80s and have always had certificates of deposit at this bank.
A: The answer is pretty simple: profits. The bank can make a lot more money from you if it can sell you a variable annuity, compared to what it can make selling you a CD.
At your time of life, though, variable annuities don’t make much sense. It typically takes 15 to 20 years for the tax advantages of a variable annuity to offset the increased costs, and chances are pretty good you won’t live long enough to see that day. Annuities also come with surrender charges that can cause you to lose 10% or more of your cash if you need to tap your savings in the first few years; with a CD, you’ll typically lose only a few months’ interest if you need to make an emergency withdrawal.
Regulators have repeatedly warned banks and brokerages about pushing annuities on seniors. If this official persists in hounding you, you might mention that fact and suggest he call the Securities and Exchange Commission or the National Association of Securities Dealers if he needs more details about why these investments are often inappropriate for seniors.
Finance Management and Planning in Retirement
Question: I am 51 and recently retired from a company after 30 years. I realize my savings will need to last for a long time and want to be as careful as possible. I’ve been talking to a financial planner that a friend has been using for several years. What questions should I be asking, and how can I research his background?
Answer: You’re right to want to get good advice on managing your retirement nest egg. Current life expectancy tables suggest you’ll live another 30 years, which means you could spend as much time in retirement as you did working.
The slightest misstep in these early retirement years can have grave consequences for the rest of your life. Many retirees discover too late, for example, that they’ve been drawing down their savings too quickly. Current research indicates you shouldn’t withdraw more than about 4% of your savings in the first year of retirement, and perhaps even less when you’re looking at a 25- or 30-year retirement.
The structure of your portfolio is vitally important, as well. The more you have invested in stocks, the more you can potentially withdraw over time. But you also may suffer big swings in the value of your holdings, which can be scary for any investor but particularly for those whose incomes depend on their investing acumen.
An objective, qualified financial planner can help you navigate these dangerous waters, but one who’s not educated, experienced and ethical can be a disaster. At a minimum, he should have a respected financial planning credential such as a CFP (Certified Financial Planner) or a PFS (Personal Financial Specialist). The planning organization that bestowed the credential can tell you about any disciplinary actions taken against him, and you should check with state and federal regulators as well. (The planner himself should be able to point you to the right regulatory bodies, since they vary by state and by the type and size of his practice.)
You’ll need to know how he’s compensated–fees that he collects from you, commissions that he collects from the investments he sells, or a combination of both. (Collecting commissions doesn’t make him a bad person, but could raise conflict of interest issues that you’ll want to consider.)
You’ll also want to know if he specializes in investors like you, or if his expertise lies elsewhere. Managing income in retirement is a whole different ball game from investing money for retirement, so you’ll want to make sure you’re not his guinea pig.

