Does the Zero Percent Game Impact Credit Scores?
Dear Liz: We have good credit with FICO scores in the 780 to 800 range. For most of the last 20 years we have paid all of our credit card bills in full and on time, never incurring any interest charges. Recently, though, we’ve started taking advantage of “buy now, pay nothing for a year” credit card offers.
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We currently have outstanding balances of over $45,000 on several cards, and one card has an outstanding balance of $26,000 on a limit of $29,000.
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Every time we get one of these offers, we shift money from our checking or savings accounts into certificates of deposit that are scheduled to mature about a week before the zero-percent offer expires so that we can pay off the bill. Meanwhile, the money in the CDs earns 3% to 4% interest.
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We wonder how all this affects our credit scores since we are not really in debt because we have short-term savings to more than pay off these bills. Does this not show up on our credit reports?
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Answer: The scoring formula often can’t tell the difference between someone who’s playing a game of arbitrage (essentially what you’re doing) and someone who’s getting in over his or her head.
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Your credit reports, from which your FICO scores are calculated, give no clue that you have plenty of savings to pay off this debt.
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A FICO score is a three-digit number that lenders use to help gauge your creditworthiness. But it doesn’t take into account your income or any other “ability to pay” information. The FICO score gets its name from Fair Isaac Corp. of Minneapolis, which developed it.
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What the formula tracks is your payment history, the number and variety of your accounts and � most important for this discussion � the limits and balances of your accounts.
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If you’re close to the limit on any card, that’s potentially bad for your score. So, too, is opening a lot of new accounts in a relatively short period of time, even if it’s just to take advantage of a great interest rate offer.
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It’s hard to predict how playing the zero-percent game will affect your scores over time. Some people are able to do it for quite a while with no major negative effect, particularly if they are careful not to use more than 50% or so of any card’s limit. Others find their scores drop over time.
How to Boost a Mediocre Credit Score
Q: Please tell me how I can improve my credit score, which is in the marginal range around 640. I’ve never had any judgments or defaults. My late payments usually are because of carelessness, not outright delinquency. I have adequate income, and I always pay my mortgage and car loans on time. I’d like to take charge of all of this so that I am not treated like a pariah when I apply for a lower-rate credit card. Can you help?
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A: To get the best rates and terms on credit cards, you’ll need credit scores of 720 or above. You won’t get there if you continue to make late payments because the credit-scoring formulas treat overdue or missing payments as a sign that you’re about to default on your debts.
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You need to set up some kind of automatic payment system so that your bills are covered, no matter what. Fortunately, you have a couple of good options.
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Many utilities, lenders and credit card companies will happily set up automatic debit arrangements so that your payments are taken automatically from your checking account each month. (If you don’t want to pay your entire balance on a credit card, you can arrange for the minimum payment or some other set amount to be taken out each month.) You’d be smart to sign up for overdraft protection for your checking account, just in case one of your payments goes through when you don’t have sufficient cash to cover it.
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You also could set up recurring payments using an online bill-payment system. This works well when your payment is the same amount each month; if the amounts vary, you’ll need to set up some kind of reminder system so you don’t blow the deadlines. Many online bill-pay systems have such reminders, or you can use one of the many free e-mail reminder services available on the Web.
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You’ll also help your score if you pay off those credit card balances and use less than 30% of your credit limits on any card. This can be tough if you have a high balance, but it’s the smartest approach to take — for your credit score and your overall financial situation.
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Combine these steps with on-time payments, and you should notice a positive change in your score within a few months.
Can I Just Walk Away from a House and Its Mortgage?
Q: I would like to buy a house. However, I live in an area where home prices are rising rapidly, and I worry that there’s a housing bubble that could pop. If I have to move in a year or two and prices have dropped in the meantime, may I simply give the house to the bank and walk away as if I never bought it? I know I’ll lose my down payment, but are there other consequences?
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A: Walking away from a house like that typically will trash your credit, making it difficult for you to buy another home for a while. Most of the ways to deal with this situation — foreclosure, deed in lieu of foreclosure (in which you voluntarily give back the house) and short sales (in which the bank agrees to accept the proceeds of a home sale, even if it’s less than what you owe) — can all wind up as black marks on your credit report and severely affect your credit score, the three-digit number that lenders use to help gauge your creditworthiness.
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If your home is worth much less than what you owe, the lender also may go after you in court for the balance.
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Even in a normal market, you probably shouldn’t consider a home purchase if you think you’re likely to move within a couple of years. In most areas, it takes three or more years for prices to rise enough to offset the costs of selling a home. In hot markets where prices could fall dramatically, you should be able to stay put five to 10 years if you want to avoid the possibility of being “underwater” on your mortgage.
How to Recover from 6-Month Payment Hiatus
A: The FICO credit scoring formula doesn’t really care why you flaked out; it only cares that you did.
The formula weighs recent behavior more heavily than past behavior, which is both bad and good for you. The bad news is that your scores were almost certainly devastated by the delinquencies, charge-offs and collection accounts you accrued, despite your long history of on-time payments. But if you get your act together and start handling credit responsibly again, you can start to rehabilitate your credit.
Continuing to pay your installment loans on time will help, but you also should think about getting a secured credit card, which gives you a credit line equal to the amount of cash you deposit at the issuing bank. Choose one that converts to a regular card with 12 or 18 months of on-time payments, and use it lightly but regularly. Try not to charge more than 30% of your limit, and pay the balance in full every month. (Perhaps you’ll want to set up automatic payments, as you have with your other bills.)
It may take a few years to recover from your six-month lapse, but it can be done.
Do Private Lenders Report to the 3 Credit Bureaus?
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A: You can’t. The reason the bank gave you was bogus — private lenders can report information to credit bureaus just as publicly traded lenders can.
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However, a lender might not want to report information about good customers to the credit bureaus for fear a competitor might see the data and steal these profitable borrowers away. Or it simply might not want to deal with the expense and hassle of subscribing to the bureaus.
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If a lender chooses not to report the information, there’s not much you can do.
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Installment loans can help your credit scores, however. So if that’s your goal, you might consider getting an auto loan or a home equity loan from a lender that does report to all three major bureaus.

