Answer: If you live in a high-cost area but don’t have a high income, you’ll need to get creative if you want to keep your “must have” expenses—shelter, food, transportation, child care, minimum loan payments and insurance—under 50% of your after-tax income.

Many people in high-cost areas devote 40% or more of their incomes to shelter costs, which makes it all but impossible to have enough money left over for their “wants” (clothes, vacations, gifts and other non-necessities that should consumer 30% of their after-tax incomes savings, according to the 50/30/20 plan) or savings and debt repayment (which should consume 20% of your after-tax income under the plan). The result is a perpetually unbalanced budget, which often leads to more debt and lots of anxiety.

But people have come up with various solutions to better balance their budgets. Blogger Donna Freedman was an apartment manager for several years, which helped lower her shelter costs. Fred Ecks, who retired in his 40s, lived on a boat to reduce his rent in notoriously high-cost San Francisco. Other people have exchanged their services for free or reduced rent—by babysitting or serving as a companion to an elderly person.

If you can’t find a solution that lowers your housing costs, you have two options: continue to live with a lopsided budget, and accept that you may never be able to achieve a balanced financial life, or move to a place where you can make the math work.

Answer: Saving and debt elimination are tough on a low income. But that doesn’t mean basic math doesn’t apply in your situation. If you spend too much on your “must have” expenses, there simply won’t be enough left over to live your life, pay off your debt and save for your future.

People on lower incomes manage to stay out of debt and save money. To do so, though, they have to limit what they spend on their overhead. They find roommates or rent a room in someone else’s house, or move in with a family or an elderly person and offer to help out in exchange for part or all of their rent. Some decide they simply can’t live cheaply enough where they are, and opt to move elsewhere. Books and websites devoted to the voluntary simplicity movement can give you other concrete ideas about how to live on a shoestring.

If you can’t bear to trim your expenses, your only other option is to make more money. That’s not an easy prospect in this economy, but a second job or a side business could help you get out of debt and save for a down payment.

Answer: You need to accept your new reality, rather than papering it over with ill-advised loans or raids on your retirement accounts.

That means reducing your expenses dramatically to reflect your new, lower income. If your housing expenses eat up more than a third of your current pay, for example, you need to consider your alternatives. You have equity in your home, which should make a sale easier. If you want to hang on to the house, consider getting roommates or even renting out the house while you live elsewhere (if the rent will cover your home’s monthly expenses).

You may have loan payments or other debts taken on when you had more income that you can no longer afford. If that’s the case, discuss your situation with both a legitimate credit counselor (one affiliated with the National Foundation for Credit Counseling at http://www.nfcc.org) and a bankruptcy attorney (find referrals from the National Assn. of Consumer Bankruptcy Attorneys at http://www.nacba.org).

Your home equity should be reserved for emergencies, not used to finance a lifestyle you can no longer afford. And your retirement funds should be left alone for retirement.

So here’s the problem: A pet! I have had my cat Jackie for nearly 14 years. Jackie has a growth on her neck that has been growing since last fall. Last week, I took her into a pet clinic that offered free first visits. Their suggestion was to remove it and have it tested for cancer. The cost was $450 just to remove it, with another $150 to have it tested. Ouch! If it is cancer, I can’t afford the treatment.

The vet says Jackie seems remarkably healthy and could live another five or six years. Do I spend that extra money for a possible negative assessment of something I can’t afford to cure, or do I just let her live out her life with the growth continuing? I feel like I am not being a good parent.

Answer: A pet may feel like a family member, but your cat is not your child. Although most parents would willingly bankrupt themselves to save a child’s life, you don’t face a similar obligation to extend a pet’s life.

You do have an obligation to make sure a pet doesn’t suffer, and you may have more options for treatment than you think. Discuss your situation with the vet who assessed Jackie to see if more affordable diagnostic and treatment options are available. If you’re willing and able, your vet may consider allowing you to work off a bill by cleaning kennels or answering phones, according to Humane Society of the United States.

If not, contact your local animal shelter to see if it can recommend a veterinarian willing to discount his or her services. There are also a number of national and local organizations that provide financial assistance to pet owners in need. You can find a list at the Humane Society’s website.

If you get another pet down the road, consider buying a health insurance policy for the animal. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals estimates a typical policy for a cat would cost about $175 a year, although premiums vary based on deductibles and what the policy covers. Veterinary costs have spiraled to the point where these policies can provide real protection against catastrophic bills.

Answer: What you’re experiencing is frugal fatigue. You’ve cut and you’ve cut, but you still have a long way to go. It’s easy to look at the road ahead and feel discouraged.

But you have to give yourself credit for paying off $13,000 in debt. That’s a huge achievement. Give yourself another pat on the back for staying current with your bills.

The discipline you’re learning will help you enormously in the years to come. You’ll be able to build a substantial emergency fund once the debt is paid off simply by redirecting a portion of the money you’re now sending to creditors.

In the meantime, don’t sweat the fact that you don’t have a huge savings account. Work on setting aside just $500 or so, which should cover most small setbacks and keep you from having to use your credit cards. If you have to drain your savings for an emergency, that’s OK — the fund is serving its purpose. Just build it back up again.

Earning more money is usually the fastest way to dig yourself out of a hole. If you can’t find another job or a better job, create your own job. Perhaps your work skills lend themselves to moonlighting. If your job allows you to take on freelance clients, that’s a good way to bring in extra money. Otherwise, if you have a talent or skill you can teach, do that. If you don’t, consider providing services that others need: house cleaning, house sitting, dog walking, errand running.

You can look for some ways to give yourself more breathing room. If you’ve cut all the small expenses, then it’s time to look at the big ones: your rent and your debt payment. You may be able to free up more money for saving, and for living, if you find a roommate. Also, ask your credit counseling agency about the possibility of reducing your payments a bit. It will take longer to pay off your debt but it could make life more pleasant in the meantime.

Answer: Many families are facing your dilemma: flat incomes with rising costs. But your wage garnishments and 401(k) loans indicate you have a history of mismanaging your money, which has led to even more pain.

You need the advice of an experienced bankruptcy attorney. Wage garnishments by federal law aren’t supposed to exceed 25% of your disposable income, and state laws often provide even lower limits. If you can get your garnishments adjusted or have them wiped out in a bankruptcy filing, you may be able to create more breathing room.

In the meantime, see whether you qualify for the federal government’s Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (formerly known as food stamps). If you make too much money or have too much in assets to qualify, you can still visit a food bank to supplement what you’re able to buy.

If you can’t find a way to lower your costs further, the only solution is more income — not an easy prospect given the high unemployment rate, but you may be able to find a job at a competing business that pays more or start a business on the side.

Unfortunately, there are no miracles when it comes to money math. You can’t make two plus two equal five or have outgo that exceeds your income without eventual disaster.

Answer: Predicting future inflation is pretty tough and depends on a number of factors. Right now, for example, many used-car models are fetching significantly higher prices than in the past because of the sharp decline in sales of new models during the recession (leading to fewer available used cars now) and the fact that many owners are hanging on to their cars longer to save money. The production slowdown in Japan after its recent disasters is also affecting used-car prices.

Since predicting inflation is tough, you’d be smarter to focus on the factors you can more easily control: your savings and the condition of your current car. With proper maintenance, today’s vehicles can notch well over 200,000 miles. Owning a car for 10 years or more gives you plenty of time to save up cash to buy your next vehicle.

Answer: You should put retirement saving first now, even before you pay off your debt. If you don’t get a relatively early start putting away money for retirement you’re unlikely to be able to catch up later. Those who start saving after age 35 have a very tough time putting away enough money to comfortably retire, says Roger Ibbotson, founder of Ibbotson Associates financial research firm and a Yale School of Management professor. The ideal time to start saving for retirement is with your first job.

Prioritizing retirement means you’ll have less money for other goals, so paying down your debt and building up an emergency fund will take longer, but so be it. The amount of extra interest you pay on your debt will be overshadowed by the tax breaks and investment gains you’ll make in the long run in your retirement accounts.

After paying off your credit card debt, your next goals will depend on your individual situation. If all your education debt is federal student loans rather than private loans, then you needn’t be in a rush to pay it off. That’s because federal student loans have relatively low, fixed rates and many flexible repayment options. You also may qualify for student loan forgiveness in 10 years if you work in public service or 25 years if you don’t. An income-based repayment plan would allow you to minimize your payments so you could put money toward other goals. You can research your repayment options at FinAid.org, a financial aid and student loan education site.

If, on the other hand, you have some private student loans, you’ll probably want to make paying that off a priority since the rates are variable and you don’t have as many repayment options. (You probably wouldn’t be able to make income-based payments, for example.)

When to prioritize a home purchase depends, again, on your individual situation. If you’re sure you’re where you want to be for the next 10 years or so and are eager to own a home, you could start a down payment fund as soon as you finish paying off the credit card debt.

Please advise of any websites, books, associations or other resources that suggest what pitfalls to avoid (taxes and benefits have been nightmares for many people I know), how to plan before taking the plunge into self-employment and how to maximize the chance of success.

Answer: An excellent place to start would be “The Money Book for Freelancers, Part-Timers, and the Self-Employed: The Only Personal Finance System for People With Not-So-Regular Jobs” by Joseph D’Agnese and Denise Kiernan, two freelancers who figured out through trial and error how to cope with the erratic incomes while trying to pay for their own benefits and keep the IRS happy. The authors’ system revolves around putting aside a percentage of all income toward these expenses, rather than trying to save specific dollar amounts, which can be tough on an unpredictable income.

Two other great sources include the Small Business Administration website at http://www.sba.gov and Entrepreneur magazine’s site, at http://www.entrepreneur.com.

Your friends also should look for professional groups that can provide networking opportunities with successful freelancers and entrepreneurs in their fields. Nothing beats one-on-one advice and mentoring from those who have figured out how to win the game.

Answer: It’s understandable that you don’t want to tap your savings or investments, since it’s difficult to build up those funds. But it really makes no sense to carry high-interest debt when the returns you’re getting on these other accounts are probably much lower.

Talk to your tax pro about the implications of selling some or all of your non-retirement investments, though. If your investments have gained substantially in value, you’ll want to factor in the tax bill or consider selling some of your money-losers instead.

Once the credit cards are paid off, some money that used to go to those payments will be freed up for other goals.

Your priority needs to be saving for retirement. Once you’re on track there, you probably should focus on rebuilding your emergency fund to equal at least three and preferably six months’ worth of expenses. You may not be able to accomplish that before your second child arrives, though, so consider opening a home equity line of credit as a proxy for a larger emergency fund. Leave the line of credit open and unused, however, because racking up a balance would defeat the purpose.

Saving for college is a worthy goal, although it shouldn’t take priority over retirement, paying off toxic debt or having an emergency fund. You may not be able to save enough to pay the whole bill, but you can shoot for saving one-third or half the expected cost, and your child can use federal student loans for the rest. SavingForCollege.com has a calculator to help fine-tune your plan. Even if you can’t save as much as you’d like, you should save something. Even $25 a month over time will help reduce the amount your child needs to borrow.

Home improvements should be last on your list of priorities, and you should try to pay for those with cash. They are not an investment in your home — although they may improve the value somewhat, you’ll typically get back less than 70% of what you spend.